1. Place flour, yeast, sugar, all spice, nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl.
2. Briefly mix with stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.
3. Add butter, milk, egg, sultanas, chocolate and zest.
4. Mix until a smooth elastic dough forms in your standmixer.
5. Add extra flour ONLY if required, just enough so dough comes away from side of bowl when mixing and doesn't stick terribly to your fingers.
6. Dough is kneaded enough when it's smooth and does not break when stretched.
7. Leave dough in the bowl, cover with cling wrap and keep in a warm place to rise until doubled in size. This will take about 1 1/2 hours depending on how warm it is.
8. Line a tray with baking paper with overhang.
9. Remove cling wrap and punch dough to deflate.
10. Place dough on work surface (you can dust flour on work surface, i didn’t), shape into a log this will deflate the air.
11. Cut into 12 equal pieces. Take one piece and press down with palm, then use your fingers to gather into a ball, then roll the dough briefly to form a ball. This stretches the dough on one side and that's how I get a nice smooth surface.
12. Place the ball with the smooth side up on the tray. Repeat with remaining dough.
13. Spray a piece of cling wrap lightly with oil (any), then loosely place over the tray. Return tray to warm place and leave for 45 minutes, until the dough has risen (less than double in size).
14. Preheat oven to 180 degrees C.

Crosses:

1. Mix flour and water until a thick runny paste forms.
   Spoon into a piping bag or small ziplock bag then snip corner.
2. Remove the cling wrap and pipe crosses onto the buns.
3. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the surface is a deep golden brown.
   Meanwhile, place jam and water in a bowl, microwave for 30 seconds. Mix to combine.
4. Remove buns from oven. Use overhang to lift buns onto a cooling rack.
5. Brush with jam mixture while warm. Allow to cool to warm before serving.

Notes:

• DO NOT add too much flour - results in dry dough = tough buns.
• Jam - sub with any jam to get the glossy finish. Apricot is best because sub with honey or golden syrup (follow same amount and directions).
• You could omit the raisins and add more chocolate vice versa.
• Add a teaspoon or two of cardamom powder and turn it into a chai hot cross bun.